I-Shampoo yimveliso esetyenziswa kubomi bemihla ngemihla yabantu ukususa ukungcola kwi-scalp kunye neenwele kunye nokugcina i-scalp kunye neenwele zicocekile.Izithako eziphambili zeshampu zi-surfactants (ezibizwa ngokuba yi-surfactants), i-thickeners, i-conditioners, i-preservatives, njl.Imisebenzi ye-surfactants ayibandakanyi kuphela ukucoca, ukukhupha amagwebu, ukulawula ukuziphatha kwe-rheological, kunye nobulali bolusu, kodwa kunye nokudlala indima ephambili kwi-cationic flocculation.Ngenxa yokuba i-polymer ye-cationic inokufakwa kwiinwele, inkqubo ihambelana ngokusondeleyo nomsebenzi womphezulu, kunye nomsebenzi ongaphezulu unceda ukubekwa kwamanye amacandelo anenzuzo (njenge-silicone emulsion, i-anti-dandruff actives).Ukutshintsha inkqubo ye-surfactant okanye ukuguqula amanqanaba e-electrolyte kuya kuhlala kubangela ukusabela kwekhonkco lokulungisa iziphumo zepolymer kwishampu.
1.SLES umsebenzi wetafile
I-SLS inesiphumo esihle sokuthambisa, inokuvelisa amagwebu atyebileyo, kwaye ithande ukuvelisa igwebu elikhanyayo.Nangona kunjalo, inokusebenzisana okuqinileyo kunye neeprotheni kwaye iyacaphukisa kakhulu ulusu, ngoko ayifane isetyenziswe njengowona msebenzi uphambili.Eyona nto isebenzayo ngoku yeshampu zii-SLES.Impembelelo ye-adsorption ye-SLES kulusu kunye neenwele ngokucacileyo isezantsi kune-SLS ehambelanayo.Iimveliso ze-SLES ezineqondo eliphezulu le-ethoxylation eneneni aziyi kuba nempembelelo ye-adsorption.Ukongezelela, i-foam ye-SLES Inozinzo oluhle kunye nokuchasana okunamandla kumanzi anzima.Ulusu, ngakumbi i-mucous membrane, lunyamezela kakhulu kwi-SLES kune-SLS.I-sodium laureth sulfate kunye ne-ammonium laureth sulfate zezona zisetyenziswa kakhulu kwi-SLES surfactants kwimarike.Uphando olwenziwa nguLong Zhike kunye nabanye bafumanisa ukuba i-laureth sulfate amine ine-viscosity ephezulu ye-foam, uzinzo oluhle lwe-foam, ivolumu epholileyo ephakathi, i-detergency efanelekileyo, kunye neenwele ezithambileyo emva kokuhlamba, kodwa i-laureth sulfate ammonium ityuwa i-ammonia igesi iya kuhlukaniswa phantsi kweemeko ze-alkali, ngoko ke i-sodium laureth. i-sulfate, efuna uluhlu olubanzi lwe-pH, isetyenziswa kakhulu, kodwa iphinda icaphuke ngaphezu kweetyuwa ze-ammonium.Inani leeyunithi ze-SLES ethoxy lihlala liphakathi kwe-1 kunye ne-5 yeyunithi.Ukongezwa kwamaqela e-ethoxy kuya kunciphisa i-micelle concentration (CMC) ye-sulfate surfactants.Ukuncipha okukhulu kwi-CMC kwenzeka emva kokongeza iqela elinye kuphela le-ethoxy, ngelixa emva kokongeza i-2 ukuya ku-4 amaqela e-ethoxy, ukuhla kuphantsi kakhulu.Njengoko iiyunithi ze-ethoxy zikhula, ukuhambelana kwe-AES kunye nolusu kuphucula, kwaye phantse akukho kuphazamiseka kwesikhumba kubonwa kwi-SLES equlethe malunga neeyunithi ze-ethoxy ze-10.Nangona kunjalo, ukuqaliswa kwamaqela e-ethoxy kwandisa i-solubility ye-surfactant, ethintela ukwakhiwa kwe-viscosity, ngoko kufuneka kufunyanwe ibhalansi.Iishampu ezininzi zorhwebo zisebenzisa i-SLES equlethe umyinge we-1 ukuya kwi-3 yeeyunithi ze-ethoxy.
Isishwankathelo, i-SLES inexabiso eliphantsi kwimixube yeshampu.Ayinayo nje igwebu elityebileyo, ukuxhathisa ngamandla kumanzi aqinileyo, kulula ukujiya, kwaye ine-cationic flocculation ekhawulezayo, ke iseyeyona nto iphambili kwi-surfactant kwiishampu zangoku.
2. Amino acid surfactants
Kwiminyaka yakutshanje, ngenxa yokuba i-SLES iqulethe i-dioxane, abathengi baye baphendukela kwiinkqubo ze-surfactant ezithambileyo, ezifana ne-amino acid surfactant systems, i-alkyl glycoside surfactant systems, njl.
I-amino acid surfactants yohlulwe ikakhulu kwi-acyl glutamate, i-N-acyl sarcosinate, i-N-methylacyl taurate, njl.
2.1 I-Acyl glutamate
I-Acyl glutamates yahlulwe kwiityuwa ze-monosodium kunye neetyuwa ze-disodium.Isisombululo se-aqueous se-monosodium salts si-acidic, kwaye isisombululo se-aqueous se-disodium salts si-alkaline.Inkqubo ye-acyl glutamate surfactant inekhono elifanelekileyo lokukhupha amagwebu, ukunyakamisa kunye neempawu zokuhlamba, kunye nokuchasana kwamanzi anzima angcono okanye afana ne-SLES.Ikhuseleke kakhulu, ayizukubangela ukucaphuka kwesikhumba kunye nokuvuselela, kwaye ine-phototoxicity ephantsi., ukucaphuka kwexesha elilodwa kwi-mucosa yamehlo kuncinci, kwaye ukucaphuka kwesikhumba esonzakeleyo (iqhekeza le-5% isisombululo) sisondele kumanzi.I-acyl glutamate imele ngakumbi yi-disodium cocoyl glutamate..I-Disodium cocoyl glutamate yenziwe nge-asidi ye-coconut ekhuselekileyo yendalo kunye ne-glutamic acid emva kwe-acyl chloride.ULi Qiang et al.kufunyenwe "Uphando malunga neSicelo se-Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate kwi-Shampoos ye-Silicone-Free" eyongeza i-disodium cocoyl glutamate kwinkqubo ye-SLES inokuphucula ikhono le-foaming yenkqubo kunye nokunciphisa iimpawu ezifana ne-SLES.Ukucaphuka kwe-shampoo.Xa i-dilution factor yayiyi-10 amaxesha, amaxesha angama-20, amaxesha angama-30, kunye namaxesha angama-50, i-disodium cocoyl glutamate ayizange ichaphazele isantya se-flocculation kunye nokuqina kwenkqubo.Xa i-dilution factor ingamaxesha angama-70 okanye amaxesha angama-100, umphumo we-flocculation ungcono, kodwa ukuqina kunzima kakhulu.Isizathu kukuba kukho amaqela amabini e-carboxyl kwi-molecule ye-disodium cocoyl glutamate, kunye neqela lentloko ye-hydrophilic iyamkelwa kwi-interface.Ummandla omkhulu ukhokelela kwiparamitha encinci yokupakisha ebalulekileyo, kwaye i-surfactant idibanisa ngokulula ibe yingqukuva, isenza kube nzima ukwenza ii-micelles ezifana nentshulube, nto leyo eyenza kube nzima ukujiya.
2.2 I-N-acyl sarcosinate
I-N-acyl sarcosinate inefuthe lokumanzisa kwindawo engathathi hlangothi ukuya kuluhlu oluncinci lwe-acidic, inefuthe elinamandla kunye nefuthe lokuzinzisa, kwaye inokunyamezela okuphezulu kwamanzi anzima kunye ne-electrolytes.Oyena ummeli kakhulu yi-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate..I-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate inefuthe elihle kakhulu lokucoca.Yi-amino acid-uhlobo lwe-anionic surfactant elungiselelwe ukusuka kwimithombo yendalo ye-lauric acid kunye ne-sodium sarcosinate ngokusebenzisa i-reaction ye-phthalization, i-condensation, i-acidification kunye nokwakhiwa kwetyuwa.iarhente.Ukusebenza kwe-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate ngokubhekiselele ekusebenzeni kwegwebu, umthamo we-foam kunye nokusebenza kwe-defoaming isondele kuleyo ye-sodium laureth sulfate.Nangona kunjalo, kwinkqubo yeshampu equlethe i-polymer ye-cationic efanayo, i-flocculation curves yezi zimbini zikhona.umahluko ocacileyo.Kwinqanaba logwebu kunye nokuhlikihla, ishampu yenkqubo ye-amino acid ine-rubbing sliperiness ephantsi kunenkqubo yesulfate;kwinqanaba lokugungxulwa, hayi kuphela ukutyibilika okugungxulwayo kusezantsi kancinci, kodwa nesantya sokugungxulwa seshampu yeamino acid sisezantsi kuneshampu yesulfate.Wang Kuan et al.yafumanisa ukuba inkqubo edibeneyo ye-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate kunye ne-nonionic, i-anionic kunye ne-zwitterionic surfactants.Ngokutshintsha iiparameters ezifana ne-surfactant dosage kunye nomlinganiselo, kwafunyaniswa ukuba kwiinkqubo ze-binary compound, inani elincinci le-alkyl glycosides linokufikelela kwi-synergistic thickening;ngelixa kwiinkqubo zekhompawundi ze-ternary, umlinganiselo unempembelelo enkulu kwi-viscosity yenkqubo, phakathi kwayo Ukudibanisa i-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, i-cocamidopropyl betaine kunye ne-alkyl glycosides inokufezekisa iziphumo ezingcono zokuziqinisa.Iinkqubo ze-amino acid surfactant zinokufunda kolu hlobo lwesikimu sokujiya.
2.3 N-Methylacyltaurine
Iimpawu ezibonakalayo kunye neekhemikhali ze-N-methylacyl taurate zifana nezo ze-alkyl sulfate ye-sodium enobude obufanayo.Ikwanazo neempawu ezintle zogwebu kwaye ayichatshazelwa lula yi-pH kunye nobulukhuni bamanzi.Ineempawu ezintle zogwebu kuluhlu olubuthathaka oluneasidi, nakumanzi anzima, ngoko inoluhlu olubanzi losetyenziso kunealkyl sulfates, kwaye ayicaphukisi kangako ulusu kune-N-sodium lauroyl glutamate kunye ne-sodium lauryl phosphate.Ikufutshane, isezantsi kakhulu kune-SLES, ngumsindo ophantsi, ophakathi kwe-surfactant.Oyena ummeli ngakumbi yi-sodium methyl cocoyl taurate.I-sodium methyl cocoyl taurate yenziwa ngokuxinaniswa kwe-acids efunyenwe ngokwendalo kunye ne-sodium methyl taurate.Yenziwe ngokubanzi i-amino acid surfactant enegwebu elityebileyo kunye nozinzo oluhle logwebu.Ayichatshazelwanga yi-pH kunye namanzi.Isiphumo sobunzima.I-sodium methyl cocoyl taurate inefuthe lokujiya kwe-synergistic kunye ne-amphoteric surfactants, ngakumbi i-betaine-type amphoteric surfactants.UZheng Xiaomei et al."UPhando ngokuSebenza kweSicelo seZine ze-Amino Acid Surfactants kwiiShampoos" ezigxile kwi-sodium cocoyl glutamate, i-sodium cocoyl alanate, i-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, kunye ne-sodium lauroyl aspartate.Uphononongo oluthelekisayo lwenziwe ekusebenzeni kwesicelo kwishampu.Ukuthatha i-sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) njengesalathiso, ukusebenza kwe-foaming, ukukwazi ukucoca, ukusebenza kokuqina kunye nokusebenza kwe-flocculation kwaxoxwa.Ngokusebenzisa iimvavanyo, kwagqitywa ukuba ukusebenza kwe-sodium cocoyl alanine kunye ne-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate ingcono kancinane kune-SLES;isakhono sokucoca i-amino acid surfactants emine inomahluko omncinci, kwaye zonke zingcono kancinci kune-SLES;ukujiya Ukwenziwa komsebenzi kusezantsi kune-SLES.Ngokudibanisa i-thickener ukulungelelanisa i-viscosity yenkqubo, i-viscosity ye-sodium cocoyl alanine inkqubo inokunyuswa ukuya kwi-1500 Pa · s, ngelixa i-viscosity yezinye iinkqubo ezintathu ze-amino acid zisengaphantsi kwe-1000 Pa · s.Iigophe ze-flocculation ze-amino acid surfactants ezine zithambile kunezo ze-SLES, nto leyo ebonisa ukuba ishampu ye-amino acid igungxulwa kancinane, ngelixa inkqubo yesulfate igungxulwa ngokukhawuleza kancinci.Isishwankathelo, xa ujiya ifomyula ye-amino acid yeshampu, unokuqwalasela ukongeza i-nonionic surfactants ukunyusa ugxininiso lwe-micelle ngenjongo yokuqina.Unokongeza ii-polymer thickeners ezifana ne-PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate.Ukongeza,, ukudibanisa iconditioners ezifanelekileyo ze-cationic ukuphucula ukuhambelana kusenzima kolu hlobo lokuqulunqa.
3. Nonionic alkyl glycoside surfactants
Ukongeza kwi-amino acid surfactants, i-nonionic alkyl glycoside surfactants (APGs) itsale umdla obanzi kwiminyaka yakutshanje ngenxa yokucaphuka okuphantsi, ubuhlobo bendalo, kunye nokuhambelana kakuhle nolusu.Idityaniswe ne-surfactants efana ne-fatty alcohol polyether sulfates (SLES), ii-APGs ezingenayo i-ionic zinciphisa ukunyanzeliswa kwe-electrostatic yamaqela e-anionic ye-SLES, ngaloo ndlela zenza ii-micelles ezinkulu ezinesakhiwo esifana nentonga.Iimicelles ezinjalo azinakwenzeka ukuba zingene eluswini.Oku kunciphisa ukusebenzisana kunye neeprotheni zesikhumba kunye nokucaphukisa okubangelwa.UFu Yanling et al.yafumanisa ukuba i-SLES yayisetyenziswa njenge-anionic surfactant, i-cocamidopropyl betaine kunye ne-sodium lauroamphoacetate zisetyenzisiwe njenge-zwitterionic surfactants, kunye ne-decyl glucoside kunye ne-cocoyl glucoside zasetyenziswa njenge-nonionic surfactants.Iiarhente ezisebenzayo, emva kovavanyo, ii-anionic surfactants zineepropathi ezigqwesileyo zogwebu, zilandelwa zii-zwitterionic surfactants, kunye nee-APGs zineempawu ezimbi kakhulu zogwebu;iishampu ezine-anionic surfactants njengezona arhente zisebenzayo zinomphezulu ocacileyo, ngelixa i-zwitterionic surfactants kunye nee-APGs zineempawu ezimbi kakhulu zogwebu.Akukho flocculation yenzekileyo;ngokumalunga nokuhlanjwa kunye neempawu zokukanywa kweenwele ezimanzi, ulandelelwano ukusuka kokulungileyo ukuya kokubi kakhulu kukuba: APGs > anions > zwitterionics, ngelixa kwizinwele ezomileyo, iipropathi zokukanywa kweeshampu ezine-anion kunye nezwitterion njengoko i-surfactants eziphambili zilingana., ishampu ene-APGs njengeyona nto isetyenziswayo inezona mpawu zimbi zokukama;uvavanyo chicken embryo chorioallantoic inwebu lubonisa ukuba ishampu kunye APGs njengoko surfactant iphambili yeyona mildest, lo gama ishampu kunye anion kunye zwitterions njengoko surfactants eziphambili yeyona mildest.kakhulu.Ii-APGs zine-CMC ephantsi kwaye zizicoci ezisebenzayo kakhulu zolusu kunye ne-sebum lipids.Ke ngoko, ii-APGs zisebenza njengeyona nto iphambili yokwenza i-surfactant kwaye ikholisa ukwenza iinwele zizive zihlutshiwe kwaye zomile.Nangona zithambile eluswini, zinokukhupha iilipids kwaye zonyuse ukoma kolusu.Ke ngoko, xa usebenzisa ii-APGs njengeyona nto iphambili kwi-surfactant, kuya kufuneka uqwalasele umkhamo abawususa ngawo iilipids zolusu.Izinto zokuthambisa ezifanelekileyo zingongezwa kwifomula ukuthintela inkwethu.Ukomisa, umbhali uphinda athathele ingqalelo ukuba ingasetyenziswa njengeshampu yokulawula ioyile, ngokubhekisele kuphela.
Isishwankathelo, isakhelo sangoku esiphambili somsebenzi ongaphezulu kwiifomyula zeshampu sisalawulwa ngumsebenzi womphezulu we-anionic, owahlulwe ngokweenkqubo ezimbini ezinkulu.Okokuqala, i-SLES idityaniswe ne-zwitterionic surfactants okanye i-non-ionic surfactants ukunciphisa ukucaphuka kwayo.Le nkqubo yefomyula inogwebu olutyebileyo, kulula ukujiya, kwaye inokushukuma okukhawulezayo kwe-cationic kunye ne-silicone i-oyile conditioners kunye nexabiso eliphantsi, ngoko ke iseyeyona nkqubo iphambili ye-surfactant kwimarike.Okwesibini, iityuwa ze-anionic amino acid zidityaniswe ne-zwitterionic surfactants ukunyusa ukusebenza kogwebu, eyona ndawo ishushu kuphuhliso lwemarike.Olu hlobo lwemveliso yefomula luthambile kwaye lunogwebu olutyebileyo.Nangona kunjalo, ngenxa yokuba inkqubo yetyuwa ye-amino acid ishukuma kwaye igungxulwa kancinci, iinwele zolu hlobo lwemveliso zomile..Ii-APG ezingezo-ionic ziye zaba ngumkhombandlela omtsha kuphuhliso lweshampu ngenxa yokuhambelana kwazo kakuhle nolusu.Ubunzima ekuphuhliseni olu hlobo lwefomula kukufumana i-surfactants esebenzayo ngakumbi ukunyusa ubutyebi bayo be-foam, kunye nokongeza i-moisturizers efanelekileyo yokunciphisa impembelelo ye-APGs kwi-scalp.Iimeko ezomileyo.
Ixesha lokuposa: Dec-21-2023