Shampoo nigicuruzwa gikoreshwa mubuzima bwa buri munsi bwabantu kugirango bakureho umwanda mumutwe no mumisatsi kandi bagumane igihanga numusatsi.Ibyingenzi byingenzi bya shampoo ni surfactants (byitwa surfactants), kubyimbye, kondereti, imiti igabanya ubukana, nibindi byingenzi byingenzi ni surfactants.Imikorere ya surfactants ntabwo isukura gusa, ifuro, kugenzura imyitwarire ya rheologiya, hamwe nubwitonzi bwuruhu, ariko kandi igira uruhare runini muguhindagurika.Kuberako polymer cationic ishobora gushyirwa kumisatsi, inzira ifitanye isano cyane nibikorwa byo hejuru, kandi ibikorwa byubutaka nabyo bifasha gushira mubindi bice byingirakamaro (nka emulion ya silicone, anti-dandruff).Guhindura sisitemu ya surfactant cyangwa guhindura urwego rwa electrolyte bizahora bitera urunigi rwerekana ingaruka za polymer muri shampoo.
1.SLES ibikorwa byameza
SLS ifite ingaruka nziza yo gutanga amazi, irashobora kubyara ifuro ikungahaye, kandi ikunda kubyara flash.Nyamara, ifite imikoranire ikomeye na poroteyine kandi irakaza cyane uruhu, bityo ntigikoreshwa gake nkigikorwa nyamukuru cyo hejuru.Ibikorwa byingenzi byingenzi bigize shampo ni SLES.Ingaruka ya adsorption ya SLES kuruhu numusatsi biragaragara ko iri munsi yubwa SLS ihuye.SLES ibicuruzwa bifite urwego rwohejuru rwa ethoxylation mubyukuri nta ngaruka za adsorption.Mubyongeyeho, ifuro rya SLES Ifite ituze ryiza kandi irwanya amazi akomeye.Uruhu, cyane cyane ururenda, rwihanganira SLES kuruta SLS.Sodium laureth sulfate na ammonium laureth sulfate ni bibiri bya SLES bikoreshwa cyane ku isoko.Ubushakashatsi bwakozwe na Long Zhike n'abandi bwerekanye ko laureth sulfate amine ifite ubukonje bwinshi, ifata neza ifuro, ubwinshi bw’ifuro rito, uburyo bwiza bwo kwirinda, ndetse n umusatsi woroshye nyuma yo gukaraba, ariko laureth sulfate ammonium umunyu Amoniya izacibwa mu bihe bya alkaline, bityo sodium laureth sulfate, isaba intera nini ya pH, ikoreshwa cyane, ariko kandi irakaze kuruta umunyu wa amonium.Umubare wa SLES ethoxy isanzwe iri hagati ya 1 na 5.Kwiyongera kwamatsinda ya ethoxy bizagabanya ubukana bwa micelle yibanze (CMC) ya sulfate ya sulfate.Kugabanuka kwinshi muri CMC bibaho nyuma yo kongeramo itsinda rimwe gusa, mugihe nyuma yo kongeramo amatsinda 2 kugeza kuri 4, kugabanuka ni hasi cyane.Mugihe ibice bya ethoxy byiyongera, ubwuzuzanye bwa AES nuruhu buratera imbere, kandi hafi ya nta kurwara uruhu bigaragara muri SLES irimo ibice 10 bya ethoxy.Ariko, kwinjiza amatsinda ya ethoxy byongera imbaraga za surfactant, bikabuza kubaka ububobere, bityo hagomba kuboneka impirimbanyi.Shampo nyinshi zubucuruzi zikoresha SLES zirimo impuzandengo ya 1 kugeza 3 ya ethoxy.
Muncamake, SLES irahenze cyane muri shampoo.Ntabwo ifite ifuro ikungahaye gusa, irwanya cyane amazi akomeye, iroroshye kubyimba, kandi ifite flokculasiyo yihuta, bityo iracyari ibintu byingenzi byinjira muri shampo zubu.
2. Aminide acide
Mu myaka yashize, kubera ko SLES irimo dioxyde, abaguzi bahindukiriye sisitemu zoroheje zoroheje, nka sisitemu ya aminide acide, sisitemu ya alkyl glycoside, n'ibindi.
Aminide acide ya amino igabanijwemo cyane muri acil glutamate, N-acyl sarcosine, N-methylacyl taurate, nibindi.
2.1 Acyl glutamate
Acyl glutamates igabanyijemo umunyu wa monosodium n'umunyu wa disodium.Umuti wamazi wumunyu wa monosodium ni acide, kandi igisubizo cyamazi cyumunyu wa disodium ni alkaline.Sisitemu ya acili glutamate ifite ubushobozi bukwiye bwo kubira ifuro, kuvomera no gukaraba, hamwe no kurwanya amazi akomeye aruta cyangwa asa na SLES.Ifite umutekano muke, ntabwo izatera uburibwe bukabije bwuruhu no gukangurira, kandi ifite amafoto make., kurakara inshuro imwe kumaso yijisho ryoroheje, kandi kurakara kuruhu rwakomeretse (igice kinini cya 5% igisubizo) cyegereye icy'amazi.Abenshi bahagarariye acyl glutamate ni disodium cocoyl glutamate..Disodium cocoyl glutamate ikozwe muri acide ya cocout yumutekano muke cyane na acide glutamic nyuma ya acili chloride.Li Qiang n'abandi.dusanga muri “Ubushakashatsi ku ikoreshwa rya Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate muri Shampo idafite Silicone” ivuga ko kongeramo disodium cocoyl glutamate muri sisitemu ya SLES bishobora kuzamura ubushobozi bwa furo ya sisitemu no kugabanya ibimenyetso bisa na SLES.Shampoo.Iyo ibintu byo kugabanuka byari inshuro 10, inshuro 20, inshuro 30, ninshuro 50, disodium cocoyl glutamate ntabwo byagize ingaruka kumuvuduko wa flocculation nuburemere bwa sisitemu.Iyo ibintu byo kugabanuka ari inshuro 70 cyangwa inshuro 100, ingaruka za flocculation nibyiza, ariko kubyimba biragoye.Impamvu nuko hari amatsinda abiri ya carboxyl muri molekile ya disodium cocoyl glutamate, kandi umutwe wa hydrophilique uhagarikwa kuri interineti.Agace kanini kavamo ikintu gito cyo gupakira ibintu, kandi surfactant yegeranya muburyo bworoshye, bigatuma bigora gukora mikorobe imeze nk'inyo, bikagora kubyimba.
2.2 N-acyl sarcosine
N-acyl sarcosinate igira ingaruka zo kutagira aho ibogamiye kugeza kuri acide nkeya, ifite ingaruka zifuro nyinshi kandi zifatika, kandi ifite kwihanganira cyane amazi akomeye na electrolytike.Uhagarariye cyane ni sodium lauroyl sarcosinate..Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate ifite ingaruka nziza zo gukora isuku.Ni amine acide yo mu bwoko bwa anionic surfactant yateguwe ikomoka kumasoko karemano ya acide lauric na sodium sarcosinate binyuze mubyiciro bine byerekana phthalisation, kondegene, acide ndetse no gushinga umunyu.umukozi.Imikorere ya sodium lauroyl sarcosinate mubijyanye no gukora ifuro, ingano ya furo hamwe no gusebanya ni hafi ya sodium laureth sulfate.Ariko, muri sisitemu ya shampoo irimo polymer imwe ya cationic, imirongo ya flocculation yibiri irahari.itandukaniro rigaragara.Mu cyiciro cyo kubira no guswera, shampoo ya aminide acide ya shampoo ifite kunyerera munsi ya sisitemu ya sulfate;murwego rwo guhindagurika, ntabwo kunyerera gusa biri hasi gato, ariko kandi umuvuduko wo gutemba wa shampoo ya amino acide uri munsi yubwa shampoo ya sulfate.Wang Kuan n'abandi.yasanze sisitemu yo guhuza sodium lauroyl sarcosinate na nonionic, anionic na zwitterionic surfactants.Muguhindura ibipimo nka dosiye ya surfactant na ratio, byagaragaye ko kuri binary compound sisitemu, umubare muto wa alkyl glycoside ushobora kugera kubyimbye;mugihe muri sisitemu yububiko bwa ternary, igipimo kigira ingaruka zikomeye kumyumvire ya sisitemu, muribo Guhuza sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, cocamidopropyl betaine na alkyl glycoside bishobora kugera ku ngaruka nziza zo kwikuramo.Sisitemu ya aminide acide irashobora kwigira kuri ubu bwoko bwa gahunda yo kubyimba.
2.3 N-Methylacyltaurine
Imiterere yumubiri na chimique ya N-methylacyl taurate isa niyya sodium alkyl sulfate ifite uburebure bumwe.Ifite kandi ibintu byiza byo kubira ifuro kandi ntabwo byoroshye ingaruka za pH nubukomezi bwamazi.Ifite ibintu byinshi bifuro ifata urugero rwa acide nkeya, ndetse no mumazi akomeye, bityo ikaba ifite uburyo bwagutse bwo gukoresha kuruta alkyl sulfate, kandi ntibitera uruhu kurenza N-sodium lauroyl glutamate na sodium lauryl fosifate.Hafi ya, munsi ya SLES, ni uburakari buke, bworoshye.Abahagarariye benshi ni sodium methyl cocoyl taurate.Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate ikorwa no kwegeranya aside irike ikomoka kuri acide na sodium methyl taurate.Nibisanzwe byitwa aminide acide hamwe nibifuro byinshi kandi bihamye neza.Ntabwo ahanini byatewe na pH namazi.Ingaruka yo gukomera.Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate ifite imbaraga zo guhuza imbaraga hamwe na amphoteric surfactants, cyane cyane betaine yo mu bwoko bwa betaine.Zheng Xiaomei n'abandi.muri “Ubushakashatsi ku mikoreshereze y’imikorere ya Acide Acide ya Amino ane muri Shampoos” yibanze kuri sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl alanate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, na sodium lauroyl aspartate.Ubushakashatsi bugereranya bwakozwe ku mikorere yo gusaba muri shampoo.Gufata sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) nkibisobanuro, imikorere yo kubira ifuro, ubushobozi bwo gukora isuku, kubyibuha no gukora flocculation.Binyuze mu bushakashatsi, hanzuwe ko imikorere ya ifuro ya sodium cocoyl alanine na sodium lauroyl sarcosinate ari nziza cyane ugereranije na SLES;ubushobozi bwo gukora isuku ya acide amine acide ifite itandukaniro rito, kandi byose ni byiza gato kurenza SLES;kubyimba Imikorere muri rusange iri munsi ya SLES.Mugushyiramo umubyimba kugirango uhindure ububobere bwa sisitemu, ubwiza bwa sisitemu ya sodium cocoyl alanine irashobora kwiyongera kugera kuri Pa · 1500, mugihe ubwiza bwizindi sisitemu eshatu za aside amine buracyari munsi ya 1000 Pa · s.Imirongo ya flokculasiyo ya acide enye ya aminide acide iroroshye kurusha iya SLES, byerekana ko shampoo ya aminide acide igenda gahoro, mugihe sisitemu ya sulfate yihuta cyane.Muncamake, mugihe umubyimba wa aminide acide ya shampoo, ushobora gutekereza kongeramo nonactique surfactants kugirango wongere micelle yibanze kugirango ubyibushye.Urashobora kandi kongeramo umubyimba wa polymer nka PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate.Mubyongeyeho, guhuza ibyingenzi bikwiye kugirango tunonosore ibintu biracyari ingorabahizi muri ubu bwoko bwo gukora.
3. Nonionic alkyl glycoside surfactants
Usibye ibibyimba bya aside amine, surfactants nonionic alkyl glycoside (APGs) byashimishije abantu benshi mumyaka yashize kubera uburakari buke bwabo, kubungabunga ibidukikije, no guhuza neza nuruhu.Ufatanije na surfactants nka alcool yuzuye amavuta polyether sulfate (SLES), APGs zitari ionic zigabanya kwanga electrostatike kwanga amatsinda ya anionic ya SLES, bityo bigatuma mikoro nini ifite imiterere imeze nkinkoni.Micelles nkiyi ntishobora kwinjira mu ruhu.Ibi bigabanya imikoranire na proteyine zuruhu bikavamo kurakara.Fu Yanling n'abandi.basanze SLES yarakoreshejwe nka anionic surfactant, cocamidopropyl betaine na sodium lauroamphoacetate yakoreshejwe nka surfactants ya zwitterionic, naho glucoside ya decyl na glucoside ya cocoyl yakoreshejwe nka surfactants zidasanzwe.Imikorere ikora, nyuma yo kwipimisha, anionic surfactants ifite ibyiza byo kubira ifuro, ikurikirwa na zwitterionic surfactants, na APGs zifite ibintu bibi cyane;shampo hamwe na anionic surfactants nkibintu nyamukuru bikora bikora bifite flokculasiyo igaragara, mugihe zwitterionic surfactants na APGs zifite ibintu bibi cyane.Nta flocculation yabayeho;mubijyanye no kwoza no gutunganya umusatsi utose, gutondekanya kuva mubyiza kugeza mubi ni: APGs> anion> zwitterionics, mugihe mumisatsi yumye, guhuza imiti ya shampo hamwe na anion na zwitterions nkibikoresho byingenzi birasa., shampoo hamwe na APGs nkibikoresho nyamukuru bifite imiterere mibi yo guhuza;isuzuma ryinkoko chorioallantoic membrane yerekana ko shampoo hamwe na APGs nkibintu nyamukuru byoroheje aribyo byoroheje, mugihe shampoo ifite anion na zwitterions nkibintu nyamukuru byoroheje aribyo byoroheje.rwose.APGs ifite CMC nkeya kandi ni ibikoresho byangiza cyane uruhu na lipide ya sebum.Kubwibyo, APGs ikora nka surfactant nyamukuru kandi ikunda gutuma umusatsi wumva wambaye kandi wumye.Nubwo bitonda kuruhu, birashobora kandi gukuramo lipide no kongera umwuma wuruhu.Kubwibyo, mugihe ukoresheje APGs nkibanze byingenzi, ugomba gusuzuma urugero bakuramo lipide yuruhu.Amashanyarazi akwiye arashobora kongerwaho kumata kugirango wirinde dandruff.Kuma, umwanditsi nawe abona ko ishobora gukoreshwa nka shampoo igenzura amavuta, kugirango ikoreshwe gusa.
Muncamake, ibyingenzi byingenzi byibikorwa byubuso muri formula ya shampoo biracyiganjemo ibikorwa byubutaka bwa anionic, bigabanijwemo ibice bibiri byingenzi.Ubwa mbere, SLES ihujwe na zwitterionic surfactants cyangwa non-ionic surfactants kugirango igabanye uburakari bwayo.Sisitemu ya formula ifite ifuro ikungahaye, iroroshye kubyimba, kandi ifite flokculasiyo yihuta ya peteroli ya cationic na silicone hamwe nigiciro gito, kubwibyo rero iracyari uburyo bukuru bwibanze kumasoko.Icya kabiri, umunyu wa anionic amino acide uhujwe na zwitterionic surfactants kugirango wongere imikorere ifuro, akaba ari ahantu hashyushye mugutezimbere isoko.Ubu bwoko bwibicuruzwa byoroshye kandi bifite ifuro ryinshi.Nyamara, kubera ko aminide acide ya aminide acide kandi igenda gahoro gahoro, umusatsi wubwoko bwibicuruzwa urumye..APGs zitari ionic zahindutse icyerekezo gishya mugutezimbere shampoo kubera guhuza neza nuruhu.Ingorabahizi mugutezimbere ubu bwoko bwa formula ni ugushakisha uburyo bwiza bwogukoresha kugirango wongere ubukire bwa furo, no kongeramo amazi meza kugirango ugabanye ingaruka za APGs kumutwe.Ibihe byumye.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Ukuboza-21-2023