Shampoo ndi mankhwala omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito m'moyo wa anthu tsiku ndi tsiku kuchotsa litsiro pamutu ndi tsitsi ndikusunga khungu ndi tsitsi.Zosakaniza zazikulu za shampu ndi surfactants (omwe amatchedwa surfactants), thickeners, conditioners, preservatives, etc. Chofunika kwambiri ndi surfactants.Ntchito za ma surfactants sizimaphatikizapo kuyeretsa, kuchita thovu, kuwongolera machitidwe a rheological, komanso kufatsa kwa khungu, komanso kutenga gawo lofunikira pakusuntha kwa cationic.Chifukwa cationic polima akhoza waikamo pa tsitsi, ndondomekoyi zimagwirizana kwambiri ndi ntchito pamwamba, ndi ntchito pamwamba amathandizanso mafunsidwe a zigawo zina zothandiza (monga silikoni emulsion, anti-dandruff yogwira).Kusintha ma surfactant system kapena kusintha ma electrolyte nthawi zonse kumapangitsa kuti pakhale kusintha kwa ma polima mu shampoo.
1.SLES tebulo ntchito
SLS imakhala ndi mphamvu yonyowa bwino, imatha kutulutsa thovu lolemera, ndipo imatulutsa thovu lonyezimira.Komabe, imakhala ndi mgwirizano wamphamvu ndi mapuloteni ndipo imakwiyitsa kwambiri khungu, choncho sagwiritsidwa ntchito kawirikawiri ngati ntchito yaikulu ya pamwamba.Chomwe chimagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri pama shampoos ndi SLES.Kutsatsa kwa SLES pakhungu ndi tsitsi mwachiwonekere ndikotsika kuposa kwa SLS yofananira.Zogulitsa za SLES zokhala ndi digiri yapamwamba ya ethoxylation sizikhala ndi zotsatira za adsorption.Kuphatikiza apo, thovu la SLES Lili ndi kukhazikika kwabwino komanso kukana mwamphamvu kumadzi olimba.Khungu, makamaka mucous nembanemba, limalekerera kwambiri SLES kuposa SLS.Sodium laureth sulfate ndi ammonium laureth sulfate ndi awiri omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri pa SLES pamsika.Kafukufuku wa Long Zhike ndi ena adapeza kuti laureth sulfate amine imakhala ndi kukhuthala kwa thovu, kukhazikika kwa thovu, kutulutsa thovu pang'onopang'ono, kutsuka bwino, komanso tsitsi lofewa mukatsuka, koma laureth sulfate ammonium mchere wammonia mpweya wa ammonia udzasiyanitsidwa pansi pamikhalidwe yamchere, kotero sodium laureth. sulphate, yomwe imafuna pH yochuluka, imagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri, koma imakhalanso yowopsya kuposa mchere wa ammonium.Chiwerengero cha ma SLES ethoxy mayunitsi nthawi zambiri amakhala pakati pa 1 ndi 5 mayunitsi.Kuphatikizika kwa magulu a ethoxy kudzachepetsa ndende yovuta ya micelle (CMC) ya sulfate surfactants.Kutsika kwakukulu kwa CMC kumachitika mutatha kuwonjezera gulu limodzi lokha la ethoxy, pamene mutatha kuwonjezera 2 mpaka 4 magulu a ethoxy, kuchepa kumakhala kochepa kwambiri.Pamene mayunitsi a ethoxy akuchulukirachulukira, kugwirizana kwa AES ndi khungu kumapita bwino, ndipo pafupifupi palibe kuyabwa kwapakhungu komwe kumawonedwa mu SLES yomwe ili ndi pafupifupi mayunitsi 10 a ethoxy.Komabe, kuyambitsidwa kwa magulu a ethoxy kumawonjezera kusungunuka kwa surfactant, zomwe zimalepheretsa kumanga mamasukidwe akayendedwe, kotero kuti kusamvana kumafunika kupezeka.Ma shampoos ambiri ogulitsa amagwiritsa ntchito SLES okhala ndi pafupifupi 1 mpaka 3 ma ethoxy unit.
Mwachidule, SLES ndiyotsika mtengo pamapangidwe a shampoo.Sikuti imakhala ndi thovu lolemera, kukana kwambiri madzi olimba, ndi yosavuta kukhuthala, ndipo imakhala ndi cationic flocculation yofulumira, kotero imakhala yowonjezereka kwambiri mu shampoos zamakono.
2. Amino acid surfactants
M'zaka zaposachedwa, chifukwa SLES ili ndi dioxane, ogula atembenukira ku machitidwe ocheperako, monga ma amino acid surfactant systems, alkyl glycoside surfactant systems, etc.
Amino acid surfactants makamaka anawagawa acyl glutamate, N-acyl sarcosinate, N-methylacyl taurate, etc.
2.1 Acyl glutamate
Acyl glutamates amagawidwa mu mchere wa monosodium ndi mchere wa disodium.Njira yamadzimadzi ya mchere wa monosodium ndi acidic, ndipo njira yamadzimadzi ya mchere wa disodium ndi wamchere.Dongosolo la acyl glutamate surfactant lili ndi kuthekera kochita thovu koyenera, kunyowetsa ndi kutsuka katundu, komanso kukana madzi olimba omwe ali bwino kuposa kapena ofanana ndi SLES.Ndizotetezeka kwambiri, sizimayambitsa kupsa mtima kwapakhungu komanso kutsitsimula, komanso zimakhala ndi phototoxicity yochepa., kukwiyitsa kwa nthawi imodzi kwa mucosa wa diso kumakhala kochepa, ndipo kukwiyitsa kwa khungu lovulala (chigawo cha 5% yankho) chiri pafupi ndi madzi.Choyimira kwambiri acyl glutamate ndi disodium cocoyl glutamate..Disodium cocoyl glutamate imapangidwa kuchokera ku kokonati yachilengedwe yotetezeka kwambiri ndi glutamic acid pambuyo pa acyl chloride.Li Qiang et al.zopezeka mu "Kafukufuku pa Kugwiritsa Ntchito Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate mu Ma Shampoo Opanda Silicone" omwe kuwonjezera disodium cocoyl glutamate ku dongosolo la SLES kungapangitse kutulutsa thovu kwa dongosolo ndikuchepetsa zizindikiro za SLES.Kutentha kwa shampoo.Pamene dilution factor inali nthawi 10, 20, 30, ndi nthawi 50, disodium cocoyl glutamate sinakhudze kuthamanga kwa flocculation ndi mphamvu ya dongosolo.Pamene dilution factor ndi nthawi 70 kapena 100, flocculation zotsatira ndi bwino, koma thickening ndi kovuta kwambiri.Chifukwa chake ndi chakuti pali magulu awiri a carboxyl mu molekyulu ya disodium cocoyl glutamate, ndipo gulu la mutu wa hydrophilic limalandidwa pamawonekedwe.Dera lokulirapo limapangitsa kuti pakhale kagawo kakang'ono kwambiri kolongedza, ndipo chowonjezeracho chimangolumikizana mosavuta kukhala chozungulira, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti zikhale zovuta kupanga ma micell ngati nyongolotsi, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti zikhale zovuta kukhuthala.
2.2 N-acyl sarcosinate
N-acyl sarcosinate imakhala ndi mphamvu yonyowetsa mu ndale mpaka kumtundu wofooka wa acidic, imakhala ndi thovu lamphamvu komanso kukhazikika, ndipo imalekerera kwambiri madzi olimba ndi ma electrolyte.Choyimira kwambiri ndi sodium lauroyl sarcosinate..Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate imakhala ndi mphamvu yoyeretsa kwambiri.Ndi amino acid-mtundu wa anionic surfactant wokonzedwa kuchokera ku chilengedwe cha lauric acid ndi sodium sarcosinate kupyolera muzochitika zinayi za phthalization, condensation, acidification ndi mapangidwe amchere.wothandizira.Kuchita kwa sodium lauroyl sarcosinate potengera kutulutsa thovu, kuchuluka kwa thovu komanso kutulutsa mpweya kumayandikira kwa sodium laureth sulfate.Komabe, mu makina a shampoo omwe ali ndi polima yofanana ndi cationic, ma flocculation curves a awiriwa alipo.kusiyana koonekeratu.Mu siteji ya thovu ndi kusisita, ndi amino asidi dongosolo shampu ali otsika kutsetsereka opaka kuposa dongosolo sulphate;mu siteji yosungunula, osati kutsetsereka kokha kumatsika pang'ono, komanso kuthamanga kwa shampu ya amino acid kumakhala kotsika kuposa shampu ya sulfate.Wang Kuan et al.anapeza kuti pawiri dongosolo la sodium lauroyl sarcosinate ndi nonionic, anionic ndi zwitterionic surfactants.Mwa kusintha magawo monga surfactant mlingo ndi chiŵerengero, zinapezeka kuti bayinare pawiri kachitidwe, pang'ono alkyl glycosides akhoza kukwaniritsa synergistic thickening;pamene ternary pawiri kachitidwe, chiŵerengero amakhudza kwambiri mamasukidwe akayendedwe a dongosolo, amene Kuphatikiza sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, cocamidopropyl betaine ndi alkyl glycosides akhoza kukwaniritsa bwino kudzikonda thickening zotsatira.Amino acid surfactant machitidwe akhoza kuphunzira kuchokera mtundu wa thickening chiwembu.
2.3 N-Methylacyltaurine
Zakuthupi ndi mankhwala a N-methylacyl taurate ndi ofanana ndi a sodium alkyl sulfate omwe ali ndi unyolo womwewo.Ilinso ndi zinthu zabwino zotulutsa thovu ndipo sizikhudzidwa mosavuta ndi pH ndi kuuma kwa madzi.Imakhala ndi thovu labwino pamtundu wofooka wa acidic, ngakhale m'madzi olimba, motero imakhala ndi ntchito zambiri kuposa alkyl sulfates, ndipo imakhala yosakwiya pakhungu kuposa N-sodium lauroyl glutamate ndi sodium lauryl phosphate.Pafupi ndi, yotsika kwambiri kuposa SLES, ndiyopanda kupsa mtima pang'ono, yocheperako.Woyimira kwambiri ndi sodium methyl cocoyl taurate.Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate imapangidwa ndi condensation ya mafuta acids opangidwa mwachilengedwe ndi sodium methyl taurate.Ndiwowonjezera wa amino acid wokhala ndi thovu lolemera komanso kukhazikika kwa thovu.Sichimakhudzidwa ndi pH ndi madzi.Kuuma kwenikweni.Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate ali ndi synergistic thickening zotsatira ndi amphoteric surfactants, makamaka betaine amphoteric surfactants.Zheng Xiaomei et al.mu "Research on the Application Performance of Four Amino Acid Surfactants in Shampoos" anayang'ana pa sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl alanate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, ndi sodium lauroyl aspartate.Kafukufuku wofananira adachitika pakugwiritsa ntchito shampu.Kutenga sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) monga chofotokozera, ntchito yotulutsa thovu, kuyeretsa, kukulitsa magwiridwe antchito ndi magwiridwe antchito adakambidwa.Kupyolera mu zoyesera, zinatsimikiziridwa kuti kuchita thovu la sodium cocoyl alanine ndi sodium lauroyl sarcosinate ndikwabwinoko pang'ono kuposa kwa SLES;luso loyeretsa la ma amino acid surfactants anayi alibe kusiyana pang'ono, ndipo onse ndi abwinoko pang'ono kuposa SLES;thickening Magwiridwe nthawi zambiri amakhala otsika kuposa SLES.Powonjezera thickener kusintha kukhuthala kwa dongosolo, mamasukidwe akayendedwe a sodium cocoyl alanine dongosolo akhoza kuonjezedwa kwa 1500 Pa · s, pamene mamasukidwe akayendedwe ena atatu amino acid machitidwe akadali otsika kuposa 1000 Pa · s.Ma flocculation curves of four amino acid surfactants ndi ofatsa kuposa a SLES, kusonyeza kuti shampu ya amino acid imathamanga pang'onopang'ono, pamene sulfate system imathamanga pang'ono.Mwachidule, mukamakulitsa mawonekedwe a shampu ya amino acid, mutha kuganiza zowonjezera ma nonionic surfactants kuti muwonjezere kuchuluka kwa micelle ndicholinga chokulitsa.Mukhozanso kuwonjezera ma polymer thickeners monga PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate.Kuphatikiza apo, kuphatikizika koyenera kwa ma cationic conditioners kuti apititse patsogolo combability kumakhalabe kovuta mu mtundu uwu wa mapangidwe.
3. Nonionic alkyl glycoside surfactants
Kuphatikiza pa ma amino acid surfactants, ma nonionic alkyl glycoside surfactants (APGs) akopa chidwi chambiri m'zaka zaposachedwa chifukwa chakuchepa kwawo, kusakonda zachilengedwe, komanso kugwirizana bwino ndi khungu.Kuphatikizidwa ndi surfactants monga mafuta oledzeretsa a polyether sulfates (SLES), ma APG omwe si a ionic amachepetsa kuthamangitsidwa kwa electrostatic kwa magulu a anionic a SLES, potero amapanga ma micelles akuluakulu okhala ndi mawonekedwe ngati ndodo.Maselo oterowo samalowa pakhungu.Izi zimachepetsa kuyanjana ndi mapuloteni a khungu ndi kupsa mtima.Fu Yanling et al.adapeza kuti SLES idagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati anionic surfactant, cocamidopropyl betaine ndi sodium lauroamphoacetate zidagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati zwitterionic surfactants, ndipo decyl glucoside ndi cocoyl glucoside zidagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati zosapanga za nonionic.Ogwira ntchito, atayesedwa, ma anionic surfactants amakhala ndi thovu labwino kwambiri, lotsatiridwa ndi ma zwitterionic surfactants, ndipo ma APG amakhala ndi thovu loyipa kwambiri;ma shampoos okhala ndi ma anionic surfactants monga zida zazikulu zogwira ntchito pamtunda zimakhala zoyenda bwino, pomwe ma zwitterionic surfactants ndi ma APG amakhala ndi thovu loyipa kwambiri.Palibe flocculation yomwe inachitika;pankhani ya kupesa ndi kupesa tsitsi lonyowa, dongosolo loyambira bwino kwambiri mpaka loyipitsitsa ndi: APGs > anions > zwitterionics, pomwe mu tsitsi louma, zophatikiza za shamposi zokhala ndi ma anions ndi ma zwitterion monga ma surfactants akuluakulu ndi ofanana., shampu yokhala ndi ma APG monga chowotcha chachikulu imakhala ndi mphamvu zopeka kwambiri;Mayeso a nkhuku omwe ali ndi embryo chorioallantoic membrane amasonyeza kuti shampu yokhala ndi APGs monga surfactant yaikulu ndi yofatsa kwambiri, pamene shampu yokhala ndi anions ndi zwitterions monga surfactants yaikulu ndi yofatsa kwambiri.ndithu.Ma APG ali ndi CMC yotsika ndipo ndi zotsukira bwino pakhungu ndi sebum lipids.Chifukwa chake, ma APGs amakhala ngati surfactant wamkulu ndipo amakonda kupangitsa tsitsi kukhala lovulidwa komanso louma.Ngakhale ali ofatsa pakhungu, amathanso kuchotsa lipids ndikuwonjezera kuuma kwa khungu.Chifukwa chake, mukamagwiritsa ntchito ma APG monga opangira ma surfactant, muyenera kuganizira momwe amachotsera lipids pakhungu.Ma moisturizer oyenerera amatha kuwonjezeredwa ku formula kuti apewe dandruff.Pakuuma, wolembayo amawonanso kuti itha kugwiritsidwa ntchito ngati shampu yowongolera mafuta, kuti ingotchula kokha.
Mwachidule, chimango chachikulu cha zochitika zapamadzi mu shamposi zimayendetsedwabe ndi zochita za anionic, zomwe zimagawidwa m'magulu awiri akuluakulu.Choyamba, SLES imaphatikizidwa ndi zwitterionic surfactants kapena non-ionic surfactants kuti muchepetse kupsa mtima kwake.Makinawa ali ndi thovu lolemera, ndi losavuta kukhuthala, ndipo amathamanga mwachangu ma cationic ndi ma silicone otenthetsera mafuta komanso otsika mtengo, kotero akadali njira yayikulu kwambiri pamsika.Chachiwiri, mchere wa anionic amino acid umaphatikizidwa ndi ma zwitterionic surfactants kuti awonjezere kuchita thovu, komwe kuli kotentha kwambiri pakukulitsa msika.Fomula yamtunduwu ndi yofatsa komanso imakhala ndi thovu lolemera.Komabe, chifukwa chakuti mchere wa amino acid umayenda pang'onopang'ono, tsitsi lamtundu wotere limakhala louma..Non-ionic APGs akhala njira yatsopano yopangira shampu chifukwa chogwirizana bwino ndi khungu.Kuvuta kupanga mtundu uwu wa fomula ndikupeza zida zogwirira ntchito bwino kuti ziwonjezere kuchuluka kwa thovu, komanso kuwonjezera zonyowa zoyenera kuti muchepetse mphamvu ya ma APG pamutu.Zouma.
Nthawi yotumiza: Dec-21-2023