Shampoo yog ib yam khoom siv nyob rau hauv tib neeg lub neej txhua hnub kom tshem tawm cov av ntawm tawv taub hau thiab plaub hau thiab ua kom tawv taub hau thiab plaub hau huv si.Cov khoom xyaw tseem ceeb ntawm cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau yog surfactants (hu ua surfactants), thickeners, conditioners, preservatives, thiab lwm yam. Cov khoom tseem ceeb tshaj plaws yog surfactants.Lub luag haujlwm ntawm surfactants suav nrog tsis yog tsuas yog ntxuav, ua npuas dej, tswj tus cwj pwm rheological, thiab tawv nqaij mos, tab sis kuj ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv cationic flocculation.Vim hais tias cov cationic polymer tuaj yeem tso rau ntawm cov plaub hau, cov txheej txheem zoo sib xws rau cov dej num saum npoo av, thiab cov dej num saum npoo av kuj tseem pab ua kom muaj lwm cov khoom siv zoo (xws li silicone emulsion, anti-dandruff actives).Hloov cov txheej txheem surfactant lossis hloov cov qib electrolyte yuav ib txwm ua rau cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob ntawm cov tshuaj tiv thaiv polymer hauv cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau.
1.SLES lub rooj ua haujlwm
SLS muaj cov nyhuv moisturizing zoo, tuaj yeem tsim ua npuas ncauj nplua nuj, thiab nyhav ua npuas ncauj.Txawm li cas los xij, nws muaj kev sib cuam tshuam nrog cov proteins thiab ua rau khaus khaus ntawm daim tawv nqaij, yog li nws tsis tshua siv los ua cov haujlwm tseem ceeb ntawm qhov chaw.Tam sim no cov khoom tseem ceeb ntawm cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau yog SLES.Cov nyhuv adsorption ntawm SLES ntawm daim tawv nqaij thiab plaub hau yog pom tseeb qis dua qhov sib thooj SLS.SLES cov khoom uas muaj qib siab dua ntawm ethoxylation yuav tsis muaj qhov cuam tshuam adsorption.Tsis tas li ntawd, ua npuas ncauj ntawm SLES Nws muaj kev ruaj ntseg zoo thiab muaj zog tiv thaiv dej tawv.Cov tawv nqaij, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog cov mucous daim nyias nyias, muaj kev tiv thaiv ntau dua rau SLES dua li SLS.Sodium laureth sulfate thiab ammonium laureth sulfate yog ob feem ntau siv SLES surfactants ntawm lub khw.Kev tshawb fawb los ntawm Long Zhike thiab lwm tus pom tias laureth sulfate amine muaj ntau dua ua npuas ncauj viscosity, zoo ua npuas ncauj stability, nruab nrab foaming ntim, zoo detergency, thiab softer plaub hau tom qab ntxuav, tab sis laureth sulfate ammonium ntsev Ammonia gas yuav dissociated nyob rau hauv alkaline tej yam kev mob, yog li sodium laureth sulfate, uas yuav tsum tau ib tug dav pH ntau, yog dav siv, tab sis nws kuj yog heev irritating tshaj ammonium ntsev.Tus naj npawb ntawm SLES ethoxy units feem ntau yog nruab nrab ntawm 1 thiab 5 units.Qhov sib ntxiv ntawm ethoxy pawg yuav txo qhov tseem ceeb micelle concentration (CMC) ntawm sulfate surfactants.Qhov loj tshaj plaws txo qis hauv CMC tshwm sim tom qab ntxiv ib pawg ethoxy nkaus xwb, thaum tom qab ntxiv 2 mus rau 4 pawg ethoxy, qhov txo qis dua.Raws li cov ethoxy units nce, kev sib raug zoo ntawm AES nrog daim tawv nqaij txhim kho, thiab yuav luag tsis muaj qhov khaus ntawm daim tawv nqaij tau pom hauv SLES uas muaj txog 10 ethoxy units.Txawm li cas los xij, kev taw qhia ntawm ethoxy pawg ua rau kom cov solubility ntawm cov surfactant, uas cuam tshuam lub tsev viscosity, yog li yuav tsum muaj qhov sib npaug.Ntau cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau ua lag luam siv SLES uas muaj qhov nruab nrab ntawm 1 txog 3 ethoxy units.
Hauv cov ntsiab lus, SLES yog tus nqi tsim nyog hauv cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau.Nws tsis tsuas yog nplua nuj ua npuas ncauj, muaj zog tiv thaiv dej tawv, yooj yim kom tuab, thiab muaj cationic flocculation ceev, yog li nws tseem yog lub ntsiab surfactant hauv cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau tam sim no.
2. Amino acid surfactants
Nyob rau hauv xyoo tas los no, vim tias SLES muaj dioxane, cov neeg siv khoom tau tig mus rau cov tshuab me me, xws li amino acid surfactant systems, alkyl glycoside surfactant systems, thiab lwm yam.
Amino acid surfactants feem ntau muab faib ua acyl glutamate, N-acyl sarcosinate, N-methylacyl taurate, thiab lwm yam.
2.1 Acyl glutamate
Acyl glutamates muab faib ua monosodium ntsev thiab disodium ntsev.Lub aqueous tov ntawm monosodium ntsev yog acidic, thiab aqueous tov ntawm disodium ntsev yog alkaline.Cov txheej txheem acyl glutamate surfactant muaj qhov tsim nyog foaming peev xwm, moistening thiab ntxuav cov khoom, thiab cov dej tsis zoo uas zoo dua los yog zoo ib yam li SLES.Nws muaj kev nyab xeeb heev, yuav tsis ua rau mob tawv nqaij khaus thiab rhiab heev, thiab tsis tshua muaj phototoxicity., qhov khaus ib zaug rau lub qhov muag mucosa yog me me, thiab qhov khaus khaus rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij raug mob (qhov loj ntawm 5% tov) yog ze rau ntawm cov dej.Tus neeg sawv cev ntau dua acyl glutamate yog disodium cocoyl glutamate..Disodium cocoyl glutamate yog tsim los ntawm cov txiv maj phaub acid thiab glutamic acid zoo heev tom qab acyl chloride.Li Qiang et al.pom nyob rau hauv "Kev Tshawb Fawb Txog Kev Siv Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate hauv Silicone-Free Shampoos" uas ntxiv disodium cocoyl glutamate rau SLES system tuaj yeem txhim kho lub peev xwm ntawm lub cev thiab txo cov tsos mob zoo li SLES.Tshuaj zawv plaub hau.Thaum lub dilution yam yog 10 zaug, 20 zaug, 30 zaug, thiab 50 zaug, disodium cocoyl glutamate tsis cuam tshuam rau flocculation ceev thiab siv ntawm lub system.Thaum lub dilution yam yog 70 zaug los yog 100 zaug, cov nyhuv flocculation yog zoo dua, tab sis thickening yog nyuaj dua.Yog vim li cas yog tias muaj ob pawg carboxyl nyob rau hauv disodium cocoyl glutamate molecule, thiab pawg hydrophilic lub taub hau yog cuam tshuam ntawm lub interface.Qhov chaw loj dua ua rau muaj qhov ntim me me, thiab cov surfactant tau yooj yim sib sau ua ke rau hauv cov duab kheej kheej, ua rau nws nyuaj rau tsim cov kab mob zoo li micelles, ua rau nws nyuaj rau thicken.
2.2 N-acyl sarcosinate hmoov
N-acyl sarcosinate muaj cov nyhuv ntub dej hauv qhov nruab nrab kom tsis muaj zog acidic ntau, muaj zog foaming thiab stabilizing teebmeem, thiab muaj kev siab ntev rau cov dej tawv thiab electrolytes.Cov neeg sawv cev tshaj plaws yog sodium lauroyl sarcosinate..Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate muaj kev tu zoo heev.Nws yog ib qho amino acid-hom anionic surfactant npaj los ntawm cov khoom siv ntuj tsim ntawm lauric acid thiab sodium sarcosinate los ntawm plaub-kauj ruam cov tshuaj phthalization, condensation, acidification thiab ntsev tsim.tus neeg sawv cev.Kev ua tau zoo ntawm sodium lauroyl sarcosinate nyob rau hauv cov nqe lus ntawm foaming kev ua tau zoo, ua npuas ncauj ntim thiab defoaming kev ua tau zoo yog ze rau ntawm sodium laureth sulfate.Txawm li cas los xij, hauv cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau uas muaj tib lub cationic polymer, cov flocculation curves ntawm ob muaj nyob.pom tseeb txawv.Nyob rau hauv lub foaming thiab rubbing theem, cov amino acid system zawv plaub hau muaj ib tug qis rubbing slipperiness tshaj lub sulfate system;nyob rau hauv lub flushing theem, tsis tsuas yog lub flushing slipperiness yog me ntsis qis, tab sis kuj lub flushing ceev ntawm cov amino acid tsuaj zawv plaub hau yog qis dua cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau sulfate.Wang Kuan et al.pom tias cov txheej txheem sib xyaw ntawm sodium lauroyl sarcosinate thiab nonionic, anionic thiab zwitterionic surfactants.Los ntawm kev hloov pauv tsis xws li surfactant ntau npaum li cas thiab qhov sib piv, nws tau pom tias rau binary compound systems, ib qho me me ntawm alkyl glycosides tuaj yeem ua tau zoo sib xws;Thaum nyob rau hauv ternary compound systems, qhov sib piv muaj qhov cuam tshuam zoo rau lub viscosity ntawm lub cev, ntawm cov uas ua ke ntawm sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, cocamidopropyl betaine thiab alkyl glycosides tuaj yeem ua tiav cov txiaj ntsig zoo ntawm tus kheej.Amino acid surfactant systems tuaj yeem kawm los ntawm hom txheej txheem thickening no.
2.3 N-Methylacyltaurine
Lub cev thiab tshuaj lom neeg cov khoom ntawm N-methylacyl taurate zoo ib yam li cov sodium alkyl sulfate nrog tib txoj hlua ntev.Nws kuj muaj cov khoom zoo foaming thiab tsis yooj yim cuam tshuam los ntawm pH thiab dej hardness.Nws muaj zoo foaming zog nyob rau hauv lub weakly acidic ntau, txawm nyob rau hauv cov dej nyuaj, yog li nws muaj ntau yam kev siv ntau tshaj li alkyl sulfates, thiab tsis tshua khaus rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij tshaj N-sodium lauroyl glutamate thiab sodium lauryl phosphate.Ze rau, qis dua SLES, nws yog ib qho tsis tshua muaj kev khaus, me me surfactant.Tus neeg sawv cev ntau dua yog sodium methyl cocoyl taurate.Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate yog tsim los ntawm condensation ntawm ib txwm muab los ntawm fatty acids thiab sodium methyl taurate.Nws yog ib tug generalized amino acid surfactant nrog nplua nuj ua npuas ncauj thiab zoo ua npuas ncauj stability.Nws yeej tsis cuam tshuam los ntawm pH thiab dej.Hardness nyhuv.Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate muaj cov nyhuv thickening nrog amphoteric surfactants, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog betaine-hom amphoteric surfactants.Zheng Xiaomei et al.Hauv "Kev Tshawb Fawb Txog Kev Ua Haujlwm ntawm Plaub Amino Acid Surfactants hauv Shampoos" tsom rau sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl alanate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, thiab sodium lauroyl aspartate.Ib qho kev tshawb fawb sib piv tau ua los ntawm kev siv tshuaj zawv plaub hau.Kev siv sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) raws li kev siv, kev ua haujlwm foaming, tu muaj peev xwm, thickening kev ua tau zoo thiab flocculation kev ua tau zoo.Los ntawm kev sim, nws tau txiav txim siab tias qhov ua tau zoo ntawm cov tshuaj sodium cocoyl alanine thiab sodium lauroyl sarcosinate yog qhov zoo dua li ntawm SLES;kev tu lub peev xwm ntawm plaub cov amino acid surfactants muaj qhov sib txawv me ntsis, thiab lawv tag nrho me ntsis zoo dua SLES;thickening Performance feem ntau qis dua SLES.Los ntawm kev ntxiv cov thickener los kho cov viscosity ntawm lub kaw lus, viscosity ntawm sodium cocoyl alanine system tuaj yeem nce mus rau 1500 Pa·s, thaum lub viscosity ntawm peb lwm cov amino acid systems tseem qis dua 1000 Pa·s.Flocculation curves ntawm plaub amino acid surfactants yog softer dua li cov SLES, qhia tias cov amino acid zawv plaub hau flushes qeeb, thaum lub sulfate system flushes me ntsis sai.Hauv cov ntsiab lus, thaum thickening cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau amino acid, koj tuaj yeem xav txog kev ntxiv nonionic surfactants kom cov micelle concentration rau lub hom phiaj ntawm thickening.Koj tuaj yeem ntxiv cov tshuaj polymer thickeners xws li PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate.Tsis tas li ntawd, kev sib xyaw ua ke tsim nyog cationic conditioners los txhim kho combability tseem yog ib qho nyuaj rau hom formulation no.
3. Nonionic alkyl glycoside surfactants
Ntxiv rau cov amino acid surfactants, nonionic alkyl glycoside surfactants (APGs) tau nyiam cov neeg nyiam thoob plaws hauv xyoo tas los no vim lawv qhov khaus qis, kev phooj ywg ib puag ncig, thiab kev sib raug zoo nrog cov tawv nqaij.Ua ke nrog cov surfactants xws li fatty cawv polyether sulfates (SLES), uas tsis yog-ionic APGs txo cov electrostatic repulsion ntawm anionic pawg ntawm SLES, yog li tsim cov micelles loj nrog cov qauv pas nrig.Xws li micelles tsis tshua nkag mus rau hauv daim tawv nqaij.Qhov no txo cov kev cuam tshuam nrog cov proteins ntawm daim tawv nqaij thiab ua rau khaus.Fu Yanling et al.pom tias SLES tau siv los ua anionic surfactant, cocamidopropyl betaine thiab sodium lauroamphoacetate tau siv los ua zwitterionic surfactants, thiab decyl glucoside thiab cocoyl glucoside tau siv los ua nonionic surfactants.Cov neeg ua haujlwm nquag, tom qab kev sim, anionic surfactants muaj qhov zoo tshaj plaws foaming zog, ua raws li zwitterionic surfactants, thiab APGs muaj qhov phem tshaj foaming zog;tsuaj zawv plaub hau nrog anionic surfactants raws li lub ntsiab nto active neeg sawv cev muaj pom tseeb flocculation, thaum zwitterionic surfactants thiab APGs muaj qhov phem tshaj foaming zog.Tsis muaj flocculation tshwm sim;Nyob rau hauv cov nqe lus ntawm kev yaug thiab ntub cov plaub hau combing zog, qhov kev txiav txim los ntawm qhov zoo tshaj plaws mus rau phem tshaj yog: APGs > anions > zwitterionics, thaum nyob rau hauv cov plaub hau qhuav, lub combing zog ntawm cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau nrog anions thiab zwitterions raws li lub ntsiab surfactants yog sib npaug., cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau nrog APGs raws li lub ntsiab surfactant muaj qhov phem tshaj combing zog;cov nqaij qaib embryo chorioallantoic membrane test qhia tau hais tias cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau nrog APGs ua cov surfactant tseem ceeb tshaj plaws, thaum cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau nrog anions thiab zwitterions raws li cov surfactants tseem ceeb tshaj plaws.heev.APGs muaj CMC tsawg thiab yog cov tshuaj ntxuav tes zoo heev rau cov tawv nqaij thiab sebum lipids.Yog li ntawd, APGs ua raws li lub ntsiab surfactant thiab nyiam ua rau cov plaub hau zoo li stripped thiab qhuav.Txawm hais tias lawv maj mam rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij, lawv tuaj yeem tshem tawm cov lipids thiab ua kom cov tawv nqaij qhuav.Yog li ntawd, thaum siv APGs ua lub ntsiab surfactant, koj yuav tsum xav txog qhov uas lawv tshem tawm cov lipids ntawm daim tawv nqaij.Tsim nyog moisturizers tuaj yeem ntxiv rau cov mis kom tiv thaiv dandruff.Rau dryness, tus sau kuj xav tias nws yuav siv tau raws li ib tug oil-tswj zawv plaub hau, rau siv xwb.
Hauv cov ntsiab lus, tam sim no lub ntsiab lus tseem ceeb ntawm kev ua haujlwm saum npoo ntawm cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau yog tseem ua haujlwm los ntawm anionic nto ua haujlwm, uas tau muab faib ua ob lub tshuab loj.Ua ntej, SLES yog ua ke nrog zwitterionic surfactants los yog non-ionic surfactants los txo nws qhov khaus.Cov qauv txheej txheem no muaj cov npuas dej nplua nuj, yooj yim rau cov tuab, thiab muaj ceev ceev flocculation ntawm cationic thiab silicone roj txias thiab tus nqi qis, yog li nws tseem yog lub hauv paus surfactant system hauv khw.Thib ob, anionic amino acid ntsev yog ua ke nrog zwitterionic surfactants kom nce foaming kev ua tau zoo, uas yog qhov chaw kub hauv kev lag luam kev loj hlob.Cov khoom siv mis no yog me me thiab muaj cov npuas dej nplua nuj.Txawm li cas los xij, vim hais tias cov amino acid ntsev system formula flocculates thiab flushes maj mam, cov plaub hau ntawm hom khoom no kuj qhuav..Non-ionic APGs tau dhau los ua cov kev taw qhia tshiab hauv kev tsim tshuaj zawv plaub hau vim tias lawv zoo sib xws nrog cov tawv nqaij.Qhov nyuaj hauv kev tsim cov qauv no yog nrhiav kom tau cov surfactants ua kom nws cov npuas nplua nuj, thiab ntxiv cov moisturizers tsim nyog los txo qhov cuam tshuam ntawm APGs ntawm tawv taub hau.Qhuav tej yam kev mob.
Post lub sij hawm: Dec-21-2023